p8ntbal4me
01-09-2008, 07:44 PM
How to install an APE Rampage A-5 Board in a Hyper frame
Here is a simple project I did today. I was bored and Im waiting on parts for another project to come. This will make replacing the older board and installing an APE Rampage A-5 Board a simple task. Now I have done it, it would probley take me an hour.
**UPDATE: At the bottom of this post is additional information collected from other users as well as myself. I added everything from their posts so you dont have to read every post.**
Before you begin, here is a list of tools I used and pre-mod cuts I did to keep the install simple and quick.
1 pair of needle nose pliers
1 pair of pliers (any will do)
1 pair of wire cutters/strippers
1 screw driver
1 soldering iron w/ wet sponge
1 desoldering iron
Some solder (I use 60/40 .032dia/8.0oz) Rosin-Core
1 razor blade
1 pen or small point marker
1 roll of 22-24 gauge stranded wire (Red)
1 roll of 22-24 gauge stranded wire (Black)
1 ligher
Some heat shrink tubing (4" or so will do more than you need)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821320817.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454199)
Pre-cut wires
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821395053.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454204)
Step 1: Gut the hyperframe. You only need the screws for the trigger switch. You can leave your trigger in if you want.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191825.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454170)
Step 2: Mark the solenoid leads BEFORE you desolder the leads from the board. I do this to ensure that if there was a change in the board later on and someone doesnt catch it, the instructions listed here will remain current.
What I do is flip the board over and make a note of which leads go to what. Here is an example of the desoldered board with the leads from my board (yours may vary some so be sure to complete this step to prevent alot of work in the later steps)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191836.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454164)
Step 3: Desolder your Capacitor. I used to just cut wires and re-solder them back toegether, but I decided with this install I was going to try desoldering the leads on the board.
Once you have the leads off the board and they are clean to you can see through the holes, proceed to desolder the wire leads from the capacitor. Your going to install new ones.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191741.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454163)
Step 4: Desolder your micro switch. Same process as with the capacitor, just make sure you keep the holes on the board clean.
Step 5: Solder your new wire leads to the board. I recommend stripping both ends of all the wires so that you dont have to do it after you spend time getting them all soldered to the board and there is more to break.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191888.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454167)
Step 6: Modifying the new micro switch. The micro switch that comes with the APE Rampage board is (hands down) beter than the 80gram Radio Shack brick that comes with the hyperframe.
In this picture you can see what the switch looks like after desoldering and before the mod. (dont cut the middle post as shown)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191916.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454172)
Shave a little bit of the screw hole off on BOTH holes. There are 2 reasons for this: First being that if you drill the hole bigger, you will destroy the inside of the switch and it wont work,.. you can try it,.. but I'll save you the hassle and show you this way. Second reason is that you can adjust the pull to your liking by simply "flipping" the switch over. I like my trigger switch with the leaf pointed up.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191921.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454171)
Step 7: Solder the leads from the board to the solenoid. Try to keep the board connections the same as the ones your leads are being soldered to on the noid. This is why you labled/made a note of the order the wires ran before desoldering earlier.
Step 8: Solder the leads from the board to the capacitor. On the capacitor, there is one post that has a light blue or black line on the side running toward the solder point. This post MUST be connected to the " - " point on the board where the original cap leads came from.
Step 9: Solder the leads from the board to the trigger switch. Use the middle post and the one just below the small button on the micro switch
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191996.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454173)
Step 10: If you used the wire lengths I listed, you should be able to run all the wires under the board and the board will sit parallel to the battery when installed. I added the extra (its not a whole lot) so you can move the items around a bit and not rip your install apart.
Step 11: Mounting the board (not complete yet) I know what I want to do I just dont have the screws I needed and I was too tired to go get them. Basically you need to drill a very small hole and tap it. Simple. I will modify this post later on!
Step 12: Adjusting the solenoid pin to our sear. If you havent noticed, the inner part of the solenoid for your APE Rampage Board is a little bit longer in stroke than the one that comes with the Hyperframe. In this step you have 2 options: File the APE solenoid or take the inner coil from the Hyperframe noid and put it in the APE solenoid.
I recomend doing either one of these methods over milling out the extra metal on the hyperframe. This is a fine tune adjustment, which means use a file, not a cut off or grinding wheel. It also means that you need a working and properly tuned valve & some air.
If your gun fires but tends to bounce (R/T) after you stop pulling the trigger at high rates of fire, you need to file the solenoid pin some more. If the gun sits at rest and you can hear a slight leak in the bolt, but you know your valve is properly tuned and works,... you need to file the pin. Take your time with this step. Grinding/cutting will over heat the inner parts of the sear and it will be of no use after that. You do not want to clamp the solenoid pin in ANYTHING that will cause drag on the inside (IE: vice grips, a vice, etc)
Once I get my new calipers in this week I will fine tune my sear and give you an exact length to use.
This part is the longest only because you have to tune the noid to the gun.
Step 13: Mount to your AGD marker,... and go mow faces!
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191819.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454169)
Enjoy!!
~ P8nt
** Additional Information Section **
------------------------------------
Nevtangle Notes : Recplacement Caps for Hyperframe board can be found at:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G4417
P8ntbal4me Notes: Replacement Caps that are NOT for the hyperframe but will work for the stock board as well as the APE Rampage Board:
http://www.scenariodreams.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=97
Here is a simple project I did today. I was bored and Im waiting on parts for another project to come. This will make replacing the older board and installing an APE Rampage A-5 Board a simple task. Now I have done it, it would probley take me an hour.
**UPDATE: At the bottom of this post is additional information collected from other users as well as myself. I added everything from their posts so you dont have to read every post.**
Before you begin, here is a list of tools I used and pre-mod cuts I did to keep the install simple and quick.
1 pair of needle nose pliers
1 pair of pliers (any will do)
1 pair of wire cutters/strippers
1 screw driver
1 soldering iron w/ wet sponge
1 desoldering iron
Some solder (I use 60/40 .032dia/8.0oz) Rosin-Core
1 razor blade
1 pen or small point marker
1 roll of 22-24 gauge stranded wire (Red)
1 roll of 22-24 gauge stranded wire (Black)
1 ligher
Some heat shrink tubing (4" or so will do more than you need)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821320817.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454199)
Pre-cut wires
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821395053.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454204)
Step 1: Gut the hyperframe. You only need the screws for the trigger switch. You can leave your trigger in if you want.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191825.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454170)
Step 2: Mark the solenoid leads BEFORE you desolder the leads from the board. I do this to ensure that if there was a change in the board later on and someone doesnt catch it, the instructions listed here will remain current.
What I do is flip the board over and make a note of which leads go to what. Here is an example of the desoldered board with the leads from my board (yours may vary some so be sure to complete this step to prevent alot of work in the later steps)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191836.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454164)
Step 3: Desolder your Capacitor. I used to just cut wires and re-solder them back toegether, but I decided with this install I was going to try desoldering the leads on the board.
Once you have the leads off the board and they are clean to you can see through the holes, proceed to desolder the wire leads from the capacitor. Your going to install new ones.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191741.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454163)
Step 4: Desolder your micro switch. Same process as with the capacitor, just make sure you keep the holes on the board clean.
Step 5: Solder your new wire leads to the board. I recommend stripping both ends of all the wires so that you dont have to do it after you spend time getting them all soldered to the board and there is more to break.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191888.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454167)
Step 6: Modifying the new micro switch. The micro switch that comes with the APE Rampage board is (hands down) beter than the 80gram Radio Shack brick that comes with the hyperframe.
In this picture you can see what the switch looks like after desoldering and before the mod. (dont cut the middle post as shown)
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191916.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454172)
Shave a little bit of the screw hole off on BOTH holes. There are 2 reasons for this: First being that if you drill the hole bigger, you will destroy the inside of the switch and it wont work,.. you can try it,.. but I'll save you the hassle and show you this way. Second reason is that you can adjust the pull to your liking by simply "flipping" the switch over. I like my trigger switch with the leaf pointed up.
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191921.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454171)
Step 7: Solder the leads from the board to the solenoid. Try to keep the board connections the same as the ones your leads are being soldered to on the noid. This is why you labled/made a note of the order the wires ran before desoldering earlier.
Step 8: Solder the leads from the board to the capacitor. On the capacitor, there is one post that has a light blue or black line on the side running toward the solder point. This post MUST be connected to the " - " point on the board where the original cap leads came from.
Step 9: Solder the leads from the board to the trigger switch. Use the middle post and the one just below the small button on the micro switch
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191996.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454173)
Step 10: If you used the wire lengths I listed, you should be able to run all the wires under the board and the board will sit parallel to the battery when installed. I added the extra (its not a whole lot) so you can move the items around a bit and not rip your install apart.
Step 11: Mounting the board (not complete yet) I know what I want to do I just dont have the screws I needed and I was too tired to go get them. Basically you need to drill a very small hole and tap it. Simple. I will modify this post later on!
Step 12: Adjusting the solenoid pin to our sear. If you havent noticed, the inner part of the solenoid for your APE Rampage Board is a little bit longer in stroke than the one that comes with the Hyperframe. In this step you have 2 options: File the APE solenoid or take the inner coil from the Hyperframe noid and put it in the APE solenoid.
I recomend doing either one of these methods over milling out the extra metal on the hyperframe. This is a fine tune adjustment, which means use a file, not a cut off or grinding wheel. It also means that you need a working and properly tuned valve & some air.
If your gun fires but tends to bounce (R/T) after you stop pulling the trigger at high rates of fire, you need to file the solenoid pin some more. If the gun sits at rest and you can hear a slight leak in the bolt, but you know your valve is properly tuned and works,... you need to file the pin. Take your time with this step. Grinding/cutting will over heat the inner parts of the sear and it will be of no use after that. You do not want to clamp the solenoid pin in ANYTHING that will cause drag on the inside (IE: vice grips, a vice, etc)
Once I get my new calipers in this week I will fine tune my sear and give you an exact length to use.
This part is the longest only because you have to tune the noid to the gun.
Step 13: Mount to your AGD marker,... and go mow faces!
http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/1/821191819.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7454169)
Enjoy!!
~ P8nt
** Additional Information Section **
------------------------------------
Nevtangle Notes : Recplacement Caps for Hyperframe board can be found at:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G4417
P8ntbal4me Notes: Replacement Caps that are NOT for the hyperframe but will work for the stock board as well as the APE Rampage Board:
http://www.scenariodreams.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=18&products_id=97