ULT/Level 10 problem solved, but why?

[mr doo doo]

Switched my ULT back to the regular RT Pro on/off because the ULT was giving me a bit a problem (and i think it hogged up more air...?). Met a magger at my local field, and he was able to solve my problem, which was that my x-valve was having bolt stick when using the ULT.

Before he fixed my problem, i kept switching out carriers to bigger sizes until it leaked out the front, but bigger carriers didnt resolve anything.when the bolt was stuck, he just tightened the front frame screw a bit more than usual, and then tighten the field strip screw until the bolt would unstick (the field strip screw wasnt so easy to take out after that!). my problem went away, and my Level 10 was softer than ever, but i wonder, how did that solve my problem?

[BigEvil]

What is your set up?

Frame?
Rail?
ect?

[mr doo doo]

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s49/mistahchao/DSC03413.jpg

That is a ULE'd classic rail by the way. Level 10 with "dot" carrier and 2 shims, ULT with 6 shims, silver spring.

[Mechanic79]

I know on my old devilmag with level X and ULT I would have to have both grip frame screws tightened (hand tight) just right, else the gun wouldn't even fire. but once just right, the gun would rip, no problems.

Once I figured out it was the screw tightness it was smooth sailing.

[mr doo doo]

I know on my old devilmag with level X and ULT I would have to have both grip frame screws tightened (hand tight) just right, else the gun wouldn't even fire. but once just right, the gun would rip, no problems.

Once I figured out it was the screw tightness it was smooth sailing.

i kept reading threads about people having bolt stick, and the only two causes of it that i read about were small carriers and warped rails. i've tried the carrier route (i think i did correctly...), and i've always hand tightened my screws. that is why tightening the screws (to the point where i had to use an allen wrench to take it out) surprised me because it actually fixed my problem.

[Mechanic79]

It must be a tolerance issue.

[stonersr26]

I have had the same issue. That is why I tried not to take my gun apart very often because after I got it set up I didn't want to have to mess with it. When you have a rail, a body, a valve, and a frame it is pretty hard to have everything perfectly in sinc. Hence the tinkering and tuning.

[BigEvil]

I would suspect that the ULE'd rail is your culprit. Sometimes everything can 'torque' and cause issues like yours. I had a hypermag here to fix for someone that drove me crazy, until I changed the rail.

[tymcneer]

I have a couple of warped rails... not warp milled, but actually bent, so as to be unuseable.

Ty

[mr doo doo]

wow, strange... i would agree that if my rail were to be "warped," the ULEing must have caused it. so does this mean im straighting the rail back by tightening the screws to the max? will this ruin my valve and body? why does it shoot perfectly with my RT Pro on/off though?

[tymcneer]

The RT on/off has more force to overcome any irregularities in the setup. My fastest guns are made by matching up parts, until they are "perfect". I have founf the the reduced RT effect on the ULT makes the reset on a questionable marker, far more iffy.

Ty

[IronHyde]

Ive never had to deal with a problem like this but then again Ive never used a chrono so who knows how consistent im shooting.

Btw, that mag looks ****in SICK!

[mr doo doo]

The RT on/off has more force to overcome any irregularities in the setup. My fastest guns are made by matching up parts, until they are "perfect". I have founf the the reduced RT effect on the ULT makes the reset on a questionable marker, far more iffy.

Ty

ah, i get it know. i guess my mag isnt so "perfect" :(. its all good, the RT Pro on/off is good enough for me. miss the lightness of the trigger pull though from the ULT.

Ive never had to deal with a problem like this but then again Ive never used a chrono so who knows how consistent im shooting.

Btw, that mag looks ****in SICK!

why thank you kind sir. :banana:

[tymcneer]

Ok... time to give away a little secret...

If you have to tighten the frame and field strip screw down really tight, there is a possibility that the rail is bent. The condition would be bent low in the middle. To test the theory, disassemble your mag. Take a good steel ruler, straight edge, surface plate (right ;) ) and touch it to the top of the rail. see if there is a gap between the straight edge and the rail. if there is, put the straight edge on the bottom, and see how much it rocks. Remember that the rails were formed first as an extrusion, and then cut, machined, anno'd and lasered. There is a possibility that anywhere along the line, this could have happened.

If the rail is bent, you can try unbending it, but that is a hit or miss kinda thing. If you decide to try, remember to pad the rail from direct tool strikes. Use wood as the actual contact point. Above all... measure frequently. It is far better to take a long time to do it right, than to cost yourself a new rail for rushing.

The speed gun I built for Sarah, was simply a matter of matching the right parts. I have a problem child RT that I have been working on, and I think it is bent, or something. Time to try shimming the gun until it works correctly, and then make the final adjustments based on the shims used to correct the problem.

Ty

[robnix]

he just tightened the front frame screw a bit more than usual, and then tighten the field strip screw until the bolt would unstick


My emag with one of Rogue's shadow rails does the same thing. It's the ULE'in g of the rail that does it I think. I had to back off on tightening the grip screw too much.

[mr doo doo]

yea, i remembered that robnix, that was with your 12th man i believe. but as i mentioned, the "warped rail" problem was what i always tried to avoid, so both my front frame and field strip screw were hand tightened, and i even tried a little loose than hand tightened, but none of those method worked - the complete opposite worked. :scratchhead:

tymcneer, i'll go see if my rail is warped or not. hopefully it isnt, but i'll go out and measure it tomorrow. sort of sucks though since i liked the rail :(.

[robnix]

yea, i remembered that robnix, that was with your 12th man i believe. but as i mentioned, the "warped rail" problem was what i always tried to avoid, so both my front frame and field strip screw were hand tightened, and i even tried a little loose than hand tightened, but none of those method worked - the complete opposite worked. :scratchhead:

tymcneer, i'll go see if my rail is warped or not. hopefully it isnt, but i'll go out and measure it tomorrow. sort of sucks though since i liked the rail :(.

Most likely tightening it brought the rail in alignment with the body.

[Mechanic79]

I have two emags, RT PRO, and RT ULE with ULE rail milling and I can tighten the screws to factory standards. The only issue I had was on the devilmag which was also ULE but, again, I had to tighten only hand snug.

Perhaps it is who does the milling of the rail (or their mood :) ).