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warpedmephisto
01-29-2008, 03:04 PM
Hi All,

I'm thinking about doing a certain project. What I need to know from you guys is what feedneck threads, ball detent threads and barrel threads you guys like. I'm thinking Viking/Cyborg or Matrix feednecks (for their strong threads), cocker barrel threads (they're kinda like... everywhere) and cocker ball detents (again, there's a ton out there). Let me know what you guys think!

Thanks!

-Andy

BlueDragonX
01-29-2008, 09:31 PM
Yes, cocker threads for the barrel and detents. They are very much everywhere.

For feednecks, I can't really venture an opinion as I don't know anything about specific feedneck threads. I mean, I'm very much content with the Angel threads on my Mag, but I've only ever had two different feednecks and haven't had problems out of either.

Resurection
01-29-2008, 09:33 PM
FYI about the cocker barrel though. Not every one is the same. Doc and others can attest that there was no real standard for the tolerances. Just an FYI.

warpedmephisto
01-29-2008, 10:11 PM
Yeah, so I've heard. I was going to go off of the AGD sluggo body drawing for dimensions plus take some measurements off my Matrix breech as that seems to fit all of my 'cocker barrels.

IronHyde
01-29-2008, 10:14 PM
I guess stronger threads are better ultimately, but I would prefer all parts be interchangable with the parts i have now. Plus id like to use sub zeros (if i can find a couple :wall:) and they only come in angel thread. I dont mind the detents as ill run stock ones until I must upgrade.

ThePixelGuru
01-30-2008, 05:38 PM
I would find the best damn feedneck, detents and barrels that I could and then pick from those threads. Like IronHyde said, if you're set on a Subzero feedneck or something, that limits you to Angel threads. Or you could just go with 'cocker threads, probably gives you the most choices. I wouldn't really worry about stripping the threads unless you're planning on letting a kodiak bear borrow your gear or something. :twocents:

warpedmephisto
01-30-2008, 09:10 PM
Thats the problem though, my definition of the best feedneck will differ from someone else's. I personally love CCM 'necks and would just assume make "it" Matrix or Viking/Cyborg threaded. I've never really liked the fine threads that °°, ICD, BL or WDP have used but it seems like those threads seem to have the most options for feednecks.

ThePixelGuru
01-30-2008, 09:59 PM
Thats the problem though, my definition of the best feedneck will differ from someone else's. I personally love CCM 'necks and would just assume make "it" Matrix or Viking/Cyborg threaded. I've never really liked the fine threads that °°, ICD, BL or WDP have used but it seems like those threads seem to have the most options for feednecks.
Well, what I'm saying is pick your favorite feedneck, figure out which threads it comes in, and thread the body for the beefiest of those thread choices. I don't think fine threads will be a problem unless you're planning on putting your 'mag through some catastrophic impacts (which would be just as likely to destroy other parts of the marker and would probably snap your plastic hopper before your metal feedneck).

p8ntbal4me
01-30-2008, 11:01 PM
Someone is going to stone me for this one:

Barrel Threads = °°°/NXT °°°°°°°

I know,... I know,... bleh. But hear me out,... 3 turns and its off. I like not having to turn a barrel a billion times to clean it out under fire, then turn it another billion to get it back on. (yes,.. I have 2 mags with twist-lock bodies SPECIFICALLY for this reason)

Only other thread Id probley suggest is Angel Threads

Feed Necks: Angel <---- were already there,.. why change em?

Detent Threads: Angel <--- same as above.

~ P8nt

mongoose
01-31-2008, 09:46 AM
Someone is going to stone me for this one:

Barrel Threads = °°°/NXT °°°°°°°

I know,... I know,... bleh. But hear me out,... 3 turns and its off. I like not having to turn a barrel a billion times to clean it out under fire, then turn it another billion to get it back on. (yes,.. I have 2 mags with twist-lock bodies SPECIFICALLY for this reason)

Only other thread Id probley suggest is Angel Threads

Feed Necks: Angel <---- were already there,.. why change em?

Detent Threads: Angel <--- same as above.

~ P8nt


i have to agree with you about the threads being so long!!!
i guess you dont notice it untill your getting shot at while trying to clean a chop

tymcneer
01-31-2008, 09:50 AM
Do what we do... Simply remove some of the threads from either the barrel of the body. You can make it so that it only takes 3-4 turns to remove an Autococker threaded barrel :evillaugh:

Ty

Stayhuge
01-31-2008, 10:29 AM
Someone is going to stone me for this one:

Barrel Threads = °°°/NXT °°°°°°°

I know,... I know,... bleh. But hear me out,... 3 turns and its off. I like not having to turn a barrel a billion times to clean it out under fire, then turn it another billion to get it back on. (yes,.. I have 2 mags with twist-lock bodies SPECIFICALLY for this reason)

Only other thread Id probley suggest is Angel Threads

Feed Necks: Angel <---- were already there,.. why change em?

Detent Threads: Angel <--- same as above.

~ P8nt


Good point. I like the idea of three turns and it's out!! :wthumpup:

Ruler_Mark
01-31-2008, 12:56 PM
Cocker threaded barrels.

Angel threaded feednecks have done well for me. cocker threaded necks are rugged as anything but they add to height. I wouldnt mind haveing a pressfit option.

Detents gotta be dual. Angel are fine. I personally wouldnt mind °°°°°°° so i could use these:
http://www.trademygun.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32008/vpid/3005606/vpcsid/0/rid/126340

You physically see the ball detent move out and in on every shot, also you can adjust the height it goes in and the force.

They made them for cockers and angels too but they hade SS heads and are impossible to find. if you find any for angel threads LMK!

p8ntbal4me
01-31-2008, 01:17 PM
Do what we do... Simply remove some of the threads from either the barrel of the body. You can make it so that it only takes 3-4 turns to remove an Autococker threaded barrel :evillaugh:

Ty


Uhh,. wouldnt that make the barrel wobble a bit?

It has to take a certain depth to become "seated",.. correct?

Under heavy rates of fire I could see this thing comming loose.

And if you decide to shorten the number of threads on the body,.. you might as well not use cocker threads to begin with. Mag users go for looks all the time, having threads showing or a barrel not sitting flush with the body would not sit well with 90% of us on here.

The other point of the cocker barrel not all being the same is a problem as well.

~ P8nt

Ruler_Mark
01-31-2008, 01:32 PM
Uhh,. wouldnt that make the barrel wobble a bit?

It has to take a certain depth to become "seated",.. correct?

Under heavy rates of fire I could see this thing comming loose.

And if you decide to shorten the number of threads on the body,.. you might as well not use cocker threads to begin with. Mag users go for looks all the time, having threads showing or a barrel not sitting flush with the body would not sit well with 90% of us on here.

The other point of the cocker barrel not all being the same is a problem as well.

~ P8nt

plumers tape fixes wobble and vibration. on my cocker after it was annoed my barrel would vibrate and lose a 1/4th a thread a game (very dangerous) so i plumber tapeed it no more slipp. just plumb it enough it wont go no where

tymcneer
01-31-2008, 01:37 PM
Uhh,. wouldnt that make the barrel wobble a bit?

It hasn't yet, but I suppose in 15 or 20 years it *might* make a difference ;)

It has to take a certain depth to become "seated",.. correct?

100% correct

Under heavy rates of fire I could see this thing comming loose.

It doesn't at 26-34 bps... so I would guess not.

And if you decide to shorten the number of threads on the body,.. you might as well not use cocker threads to begin with. Mag users go for looks all the time, having threads showing or a barrel not sitting flush with the body would not sit well with 90% of us on here.

I used a boring bar to remove some of the threads on a Tac One body for a friend. The threads don't show, and it only takes about 3-4 turns to remove the barrel, depending on the brand.

The other point of the cocker barrel not all being the same is a problem as well.

Correct... the "standard" isn't so standard. I have a couple of barrels that will not work with the Tac body, as they are not threaded to the same length as the ones that do.

Ty

Stayhuge
01-31-2008, 01:40 PM
plumers tape fixes wobble and vibration. on my cocker after it was annoed my barrel would vibrate and lose a 1/4th a thread a game (very dangerous) so i plumber tapeed it no more slipp. just plumb it enough it wont go no where

Handy tip. I'll keep that in mind if that problem happens. I remember that happening to one of my guns that I owned, But I can't remember now.

tymcneer
01-31-2008, 01:42 PM
I've used automag barrel orings quite sucessfully, and they have a tendency to stick around a lot longer than plumbers tape.

Ty

Ruler_Mark
01-31-2008, 01:57 PM
i use to use o-rings but then i noticed that it couldnt get some barrels to full seat and the gap i think was causeing some wierd accuraccy issues switched to tape and :evillaugh:

I've used automag barrel orings quite sucessfully, and they have a tendency to stick around a lot longer than plumbers tape.

Ty

also like 100 posts ago i suggested:

Detents gotta be dual. Angel are fine. I personally wouldnt mind °°°°°°° so i could use these:
http://www.trademygun.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/32008/vpid/3005606/vpcsid/0/rid/126340

anyone agreE? :coffee:

warpedmephisto
01-31-2008, 09:31 PM
Hmm.. so a lot of people favor Angel necks - fair enough. Angel detents too, huh? Hmm... alrighty.

I'm still kind of stuck on 'cocker barrels though. I'd rather not use anything °° related but fewer turns is nice. I may try out that trick of not putting as many threads in there to reduce the number of turns with a 'cocker barrel.

Time to prototype!