The secret of making a good pneumag.. [Archive]

FiXeL

11-16-2007, 12:42 PM

BigEvil

11-16-2007, 12:55 PM

smoothice

11-16-2007, 01:00 PM

I couldn't walk mine either. I had a qev installed.

But others could walk it without a problem.

So it may be user error.

TnDeathInc

11-16-2007, 01:24 PM

gforce :)

I have the parts from cyber but have been afraid to attempt it after all the how to's were pulled down. I was supposed to get a file from someone but they never sent it.

smoothice

11-16-2007, 01:26 PM

gforce :)

I have the parts from cyber but have been afraid to attempt it after all the how to's were pulled down. I was supposed to get a file from someone but they never sent it.

I have the files :) if you still want it.

And i'm hoping gforce is my answer to walking a pneumag also

FiXeL

11-16-2007, 01:36 PM

Pneumagger is much better and more knowledgeable with these than I am, but I have a few ideas.

1 - whatever ram you are using, needs to be as far down the leg of the sear as you can go, AND have about 1/16th of air space between them when the gun is gassed up. I've heard some people refer to this as 'pre-travel'

2 - is the trigger pull too short? Depending on what switch you put in there, it is possible you are not opening it up fully?

3- Did you try to increase the LPR to compensate?

1- No, i dont have any pre-travel on the MPA-3, and its hitting the most lower part of the sear.
2- Opens up fully, have about 1,5 mm of trigger travel and its more than needed to acutate the MSV-2
3- Tried that, but to no effect. i've adjusted the LPR so it will fire with a wee bit more pressure to be reliable, but if i add too much the MSV-2 will cause problems (leaking and locking up)

mongoose

11-16-2007, 02:27 PM

i can help you.
post some pics of your setups...i need to see the internals
i have tuned a few pnuemags to shoot 15+

and yes your breaking at the tip of your barrel becouse of shots ranging in fps.

FiXeL

11-17-2007, 07:52 AM

I dont have much pics, and the gun is in parts now for re-anno. Hope these help:

http://members1.chello.nl/u.haarsma/Tac-one/DSCN3289.JPG

http://www.pbportal.de/attachments/2007/3/7/7/9/5/www.pbportal.de-paintball-1772625-55582.jpg

http://www.pbportal.de/attachments/2007/3/7/7/9/5/www.pbportal.de-paintball-1772625-55583.jpg

http://www.pbportal.de/attachments/2007/3/7/7/9/5/www.pbportal.de-paintball-1772625-55584.jpg

http://www.pbportal.de/attachments/2007/3/7/7/9/5/www.pbportal.de-paintball-1772630-55586.jpg

http://www.pbportal.de/attachments/2007/3/7/7/9/5/www.pbportal.de-paintball-1772630-55587.jpg

I've added a ballpoint spring on top of the MSV-2 to push back the lever and moved the LPR to the front grip. The LP hose now runs trough the rail.

pepple84

11-17-2007, 09:05 AM

those are some beautiful pics. you should put together a nice walkthrough of building your pneu :D

FiXeL

11-17-2007, 09:28 AM

I made those pics for pbportal.de, but i'm not really sure what the legal implications would be if i posted a howto on this forum. Also i'm not sure about PTP's patent, if it's only for the US they cannot sue me for posting it.

And, this is my first pneumag... An attempt that still needs some improvement.

BigEvil

11-17-2007, 10:46 AM

The way you have the mpa3 locked in there will make this tough, but I suggest moving it back away from the sear a tad.

FiXeL

11-17-2007, 10:48 AM

What if i shorten the piston? Currently i'm using the one Cyberave68 provided me, but i could make a shorter one at work... I have access to a lathe.

mongoose

11-18-2007, 04:14 PM

you want it set so your trigger does not travel much before shooting, also if you could move your 3 way down as much as possible...it will make your trigger pull lighter and smoother

FiXeL

11-18-2007, 04:35 PM

you want it set so your trigger does not travel much before shooting, also if you could move your 3 way down as much as possible...it will make your trigger pull lighter and smoother

Thanks! The pics are a bit dated, and in the meanwhile i did move the MPA-3 down a bit. I'm not sure if these pics were taken before or after i did that. At first i only could shoot the marker with a ULT installed, but moving the MPA down a bit it was functional with the stock on/off. The trigger pull was made as short as possible, and trigger travel is about 1,5mm. (less than 1/16")

Papa_Smurf

11-18-2007, 08:36 PM

The set screw that goes through the ram is an excellent idea.
I think I'll try that on my next build.

wooky

11-18-2007, 09:13 PM

I have the files :) if you still want it.

And i'm hoping gforce is my answer to walking a pneumag also

I too would like it if you could send me the files. Just let me know if you want to pm them or email them.

Thanks
Wook

FiXeL

11-19-2007, 09:37 AM

The set screw that goes through the ram is an excellent idea.
I think I'll try that on my next build.

Not my idea... I got the ram with this screw from Cyberave68. If you mount the MPA-3 correctly you should not need it... But if you didnt, (like i probably did) it could be usefull. :o

Btw, Luke from lukescustoms makes custom pistons for these rams: http://www.lukescustoms.com/page0017.htm (look at the bottom of the page)

smoothice

11-19-2007, 09:59 AM

I too would like it if you could send me the files. Just let me know if you want to pm them or email them.

Thanks
Wook

pm me with your emails. Its a large file so if you have hotmail I could transfer it to you via IM.

Practice Target

11-19-2007, 10:14 AM

I have the files :) if you still want it.

And i'm hoping gforce is my answer to walking a pneumag also
Smoothice, when you used mine were you able to walk it?

I have never used a sear travel stop and I leave a slight gap between the piston and the sear and have never had a problem walking any of my pneumags. I have shot videos of a couple of them to demonstrate this too.

FYI-I set the gap between the sear and the piston while the body in on the rail.

smoothice

11-19-2007, 10:17 AM

Well to be honest. I don't know how to walk a paintball gun. :mad:

But I have a halo on its way and a Gforce pneuframe as well so i'm hoping to learn.

Flyingpootang

11-20-2007, 10:52 PM

Mount the MSV2 as low as possible, don't cut the arm, and have the activation arm hit the top of the arm. The longer the leaver the less force needed to activate the MSV switch.

mongoose

11-21-2007, 04:11 PM

:deadhorse1:Mount the MSV2 as low as possible, don't cut the arm, and have the activation arm hit the top of the arm. The longer the leaver the less force needed to activate the MSV switch.

smoothice

11-21-2007, 04:13 PM

:deadhorse1:

:thatfunny:

Flyingpootang

11-21-2007, 09:25 PM

you want it set so your trigger does not travel much before shooting, also if you could move your 3 way down as much as possible...it will make your trigger pull lighter and smoother

If you haven't noticed the MSV arm has been cut and a explanation of why is always nice because some aren't as paintball savvy as you :smarty:

mongoose

11-22-2007, 11:53 AM

If you haven't noticed the MSV arm has been cut and a explanation of why is always nice because some aren't as paintball savvy as you :smarty:

sorry i was just dying to use that smile

FiXeL

11-22-2007, 12:36 PM

Right now i'm just dying to use a dremel to make a smilie on somebody... :smarty:

mongoose

11-23-2007, 11:37 AM

I have some free time...you can send me your frame if you like

FiXeL

11-23-2007, 12:09 PM

Nah, nice project when i'm bored to death. :D

mongoose

11-23-2007, 04:13 PM

an idea.....take it all apart and start over....this time use the entire length of the 3 way lever.

MedicDVG

11-24-2007, 04:24 AM

Do you have to have a ULT in the valve to work in a pnuemag?

smoothice

11-24-2007, 07:14 AM

No. But a RT on/off is advised.

FiXeL

11-24-2007, 08:38 AM

Do you have to have a ULT in the valve to work in a pnuemag?

If you mount the MPA-3 too high in the gripframe, yes. The ram should hit the lowest part of the sear when using a RT on/off.

Triangle

11-24-2007, 08:54 AM

This is probably the best Pneumag thread I've ever seen.
Topnotch, ol' bean.

wooky

11-24-2007, 03:38 PM

I hope to be building one of these babies myself soon! Just debating on what frame to do it on? Pnuemagger was going to build me one as I wanted one from him just to say that I have one that was built by him. The fact that I bought it for Dives BST to help him out, even though I did not need the parts. He tried helping me with a Race gun that I had and I thought that it was the least that I could do. And of course none of it would have been available if it were not for Warwitch had not taken on such a job and Cyberdave and others to put things to donate.

Wook

mongoose

11-26-2007, 11:00 AM

cyberave has all the pnuematics in stock

Spider

12-13-2007, 12:13 PM

What if i shorten the piston? Currently i'm using the one Cyberave68 provided me, but i could make a shorter one at work... I have access to a lathe.
For the gap, you can also grind that much off of the sear arm, but you also won't miss the phillips screw slot if you grind it down. Keep the metal out of your MPA-3 one way or the other.

It looks like you can tilt your MPA-3 down a little also (leaving that rear screw where it is). That might give you a gap as well as get you lower on the sear arm. That puts more force on the sear for the same pressure in your MSV-2.

:twocents:

FiXeL

12-13-2007, 12:24 PM

Unfortunatly, the marker that would be a pneu, got emag lowers. I'll keep the pneu frame tho, and tinker with it on some "rat" marker... I've mated a tac with an emag, so i have some spares. :D At the moment pneu has a low priority here at FiXeL's chop shop, but will be continued in another project. Just don't know when that will be, because im focusing now on my etac and all the small bits involved, like a new battery, led screen, magnets, sear, CNC milling, Anno, etc. I really want to finish this one before i start on something new.

Spider

12-13-2007, 12:42 PM

Yeah, no pitty party for you. :cheers:

mongoose

12-14-2007, 06:07 AM

For the gap, you can also grind that much off of the sear arm, but you also won't miss the phillips screw slot if you grind it down. Keep the metal out of your MPA-3 one way or the other.

It looks like you can tilt your MPA-3 down a little also (leaving that rear screw where it is). That might give you a gap as well as get you lower on the sear arm. That puts more force on the sear for the same pressure in your MSV-2.

:twocents:

My pnuemag works better without a gap. i have the 3 way up against the trigger rod, and it doesnt take much movement to fire :twocents:

Spider

12-14-2007, 08:54 AM

My pnuemag works better without a gap. i have the 3 way up against the trigger rod, and it doesnt take much movement to fire :twocents:

Hmm. I was referring to the gap between the sear and the MPA-3 ram, in relation to Big's suggestion to back the MPA-3 out a little. I should have quoted.

I agree, no need for a measureable gap in the trigger to MSV linkage, as long as it can shut off.

I don't see the other explanation here, so... The gap between the sear and the ram has two uses. The first is the same as the gap in the regular trigger/sear linkage in that the sear is insured to be able to fully engage the bolt, even though it may settle a little lower on the lip and leaving the arm a little further back. The second is to give the MPA-3 free movement to break the static friction of the piston seal, so that inconsistent force is not in question when setting your LPR.

mongoose

12-15-2007, 04:32 PM

Hmm. I was referring to the gap between the sear and the MPA-3 ram, in relation to Big's suggestion to back the MPA-3 out a little. I should have quoted.

I agree, no need for a measureable gap in the trigger to MSV linkage, as long as it can shut off.

I don't see the other explanation here, so... The gap between the sear and the ram has two uses. The first is the same as the gap in the regular trigger/sear linkage in that the sear is insured to be able to fully engage the bolt, even though it may settle a little lower on the lip and leaving the arm a little further back. The second is to give the MPA-3 free movement to break the static friction of the piston seal, so that inconsistent force is not in question when setting your LPR.

sorry about that....yes i was talkking about a different part and yes you are correct

t0nnn

12-15-2007, 05:29 PM

fixel where did you put the ballpoint spring on the lever? on the inside of it so it's pushing the lever out?

Cyberave68

12-15-2007, 06:40 PM

Oh wow look at this thread... And no one even bothered to ask me...:sticktongue: I could have helped but being as i know nothing about pneumags i'll just keep my big mouth shut....:nana:

I also have the original file for making a pneu set up, if anybody wants it PM me your email and i'll drop it over....

mongoose

12-16-2007, 05:34 AM

Just alittle late for the party....but at least your here

FiXeL

12-16-2007, 06:22 AM

fixel where did you put the ballpoint spring on the lever? on the inside of it so it's pushing the lever out?

I've mounted it on top of the MSV-2, the lever sticks out a bit and its edges keep the front end of the spring into place. At the back i secured it with a zip-tie. Not the best solution, but i had this as a quick fix and wanted to make a guide rod that keeps the spring into place.

p8ntbal4me

12-19-2007, 10:11 PM

mongoose

12-20-2007, 10:04 AM

Someone at Fox4 in October had a setup that Cyber did for him.

The frame was milled in such a way on the inside that the MSV-2 was a low as the arm could be before not touching the rod between the MSV-2 and the trigger.

Wasnt that you Mongoose?

Really nice setup. I picked it up and had it walking after 20 seconds of getting used to it.

Where is Cyber anyways!!!!!?????

~ P8nt

Did it have a spider on the grips?
Yes that was me and my venomag.......Cyberave did a great job
The frame came from Rogue and cyber added a custom piece to hold the msv-2.
Cyberave is in the process of bringing his family to their new home in PA...even the cat!

will you be joining us for tunaball this year jay?

babyface

12-22-2007, 07:32 PM

that set screw thru the ram looked like it took some real patience. really nice work!

FiXeL

04-13-2008, 12:09 PM

I've taken the advise given here about the space between the ram and the sear, and today i've had the chance to test it. And it works like a charm!! All i did was making a bit more room between the ram and the sear for some more dwell time as per say, and it works!! I've been ripping 12-15bps strings with a L7 bolt and no chops! I've shot about 1000 balls trough it and only 1 was a break.

Thanks guys for making this work! :wthumpup:

I'm thinking of making a howto page on my homepage so you can link to that...

longi

04-13-2008, 12:33 PM

Well, i've built one but for some reason it isnt walkable... If i try to go over 8 bps it turns into a paintblender, but oddly enough only the tip of the barrel has paint in it.

My theory is that i'm short stroking the valve, so one ball will go out at low fps, and is caught up by the next one.

My setup is:

- Mpa-3
- MSV-2
- No QEV
- Standard RT on/off with stock pin (xvalve)
- Sear stop (same sear travel as stock)

I thought of installing a QEV, and a shorter on/off pin, but i would like to know from the experts before i invest in something useless. I does not bother me much tho... i can shoot fast enough with it, but i want more! :D

Thnx for looking!

I had exactly the same problem as you, and i've solved it!
Think about it, all it can be is the balls catching up with each other as you fire. Chrono the gun if it's inconsistant like mine was, ie. 280-287-282-238-292-242, it's a velocity issue.
change the piston oring and the regulator seat o rings. I hadn't changed my o rings in about 2 years! so i changed the lot except the piston o ring as i didn't know it was there! I still had the same problem and it was by chance that i rang AGD for another different problem and it led me on to changing the piston o ring. The brass insert in the reg will pull out very easily with a very small electronics screwdriver. I tried mine today for the first time since changing the o rings and the problem did not re-occur. The only other thing it would be, would be your bottle reg showing signs of wear. If it's a preset reg it might not be feeding it enough air 850 psi or no. I also changed over to an adjustable reg for the first time, so that also may have had an impact on it as they have a higher flow rate. Try the o rings first and see how you get on.
:wthumpup:

longi

04-13-2008, 12:35 PM

Ahh i see you've sorted it, Kewl!!:)

SithSteve

04-13-2008, 06:55 PM

Grrrreat thread guys!!! I'm in the process of building a Mag and I want to "Pneu" it. Any help I can find on the subject is VERY appreciated!
:cheers:

MournBlade

04-14-2008, 01:03 AM

Did it have a spider on the grips?
Cyberave is in the process of bringing his family to their new home in PA...even the cat!

Which side of PA? Pittsburgh or Philly?

FiXeL

04-15-2008, 04:26 PM

Grrrreat thread guys!!! I'm in the process of building a Mag and I want to "Pneu" it. Any help I can find on the subject is VERY appreciated!
:cheers:

When i can find some time and energy i'll make a page on my homepage about how i did it, including pics. I'm not sure if i can put it up this week, kinda busy week working overtime and helping out on the local field on saturday, playing on sunday....

SithSteve

04-15-2008, 05:24 PM

Well, keep me (us) posted!!! I should have all my parts and pieces together in a week or so.
Thanks!!!

FiXeL

04-18-2008, 07:58 AM

Click. (http://members.chello.nl/u.haarsma/Pneumag/) :D

Please keep in mind this was my first attempt, and some of the pictures were used before to explain the function of it all. I hope it explains everything clearly.

Any suggestions and tips to improve this howto are appriciated!

SithSteve

04-20-2008, 02:17 PM

Iceman

04-20-2008, 02:43 PM

I have some more questions:

1. Once the old trigger rod is converted to the activation pin for the MSV-2, how is held in place? Does it just rest in the hole that gets drilled? How was the conversion done?

2. As for the Micro Rock LPR, should I use a QEV instead of the supplied fitting? Is there any benefit?

3. Do these insructions still apply to a Logic UMF (NOT the 90* version)? If not, what needs to change or be taken into consideration?

Sorry for all the questions, but I have never done this before and I want to make sure all the bases are covered so I get a nice result.

BTW: Nice job on your site!!! Very cool indeed. :cheers:

1. The trigger rod just rests in the hole. Once the trigger and msv-2 are installed, the rod isn't moving anywhere.

2. Skip the QEV. People say that a QEV will give you an extra 5ish bps... but when a pneumag can already shoot 15bps, what's the need?

3. All the frames are pretty much the same with very little differences. I don't think there's a mag frame out there that hasn't been pneumagged... so go ahead and use a UMF. (That's what I did.)

You can see more pics/examples here:
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=222337

By the way, Fixel, nice how-to website. I like. :wthumpup:

SithSteve

04-20-2008, 03:39 PM

Did you have to create a plate to mount the MSV-2 on?

longi

04-20-2008, 03:50 PM

The hose that runs from the back of the MPA-3, where it runs down into the frame, is it kinked anywhere or are you using angled barbs?
The length of the lever should imo be short to keep the lever's return quick and speedy. The longer it is the more mass the returning air has to move. Mine are very short on both frames i've made and they're both very quick. No need for magnets or springs! Both frames have very light triggers.

http://www.putfile.com/pic/7565147
http://www.putfile.com/pic/4084930

There's no difference in performance! The thing that made the most difference for me was an adjustable reg. The extra flow rate the adjustable reg provides was a real eye opener! I was able to lower the tanks input pressure to 800 and have the best ROF i could get with the frame going uncontrollably fully auto! they're a pair of brutes!

I use the Emag on/off pin, and the QEV and LX10 with the middle spring.

SithSteve

04-20-2008, 05:05 PM

The hose that runs from the back of the MPA-3, where it runs down into the frame, is it kinked anywhere or are you using angled barbs?...
I use the Emag on/off pin, and the QEV and LX10 with the middle spring.

I'm getting the kit Cyberave sells, so I'll have whatever barbs it comes with.
The X-Valve I'm using for this has a ULT and a LVL-X...
So, you ARE running the QEV... hmmm.

longi

04-20-2008, 10:47 PM

I'm getting the kit Cyberave sells, so I'll have whatever barbs it comes with.
The X-Valve I'm using for this has a ULT and a LVL-X...
So, you ARE running the QEV... hmmm.

I must admit I haven't tried it without the QEV so i'm not sure of the physical difference, but the trigger pull is ver very light. For $10.00 you can't go wrong!

druid

04-26-2008, 07:05 PM

I also have the original file for making a pneu set up, if anybody wants it PM me your email and i'll drop it over....

Hello...I just tried to PM you but your account isn't accepting them.

I just ordered a set of your pneumatics on AO and wanted to know if you could email all the info you have on making a pneuMag. Specifically, how to run the LPR horizontally from the VA, under the barrel. my Email is druid189@yahoo.com (druid189@yahoo.com) thanks!

SithSteve

04-27-2008, 09:50 AM

Should the MPA-3 be mounted straight-horizontal or at a slight angle?

What tap size/threading count does the MicroRock lpr require for when I mount it to the VA?... I know it takes a 7/16 wrench.

FiXeL

04-27-2008, 09:59 AM

LPR is fitted in a 1/8" NPT hole. The same als all the other air fittings like macroline couplings.

Practice Target

04-27-2008, 10:23 AM

Should the MPA-3 be mounted straight-horizontal or at a slight angle?

What tap size/threading count does the MicroRock lpr require for when I mount it to the VA?... I know it takes a 7/16 wrench.
The mounting angle of the MPA 3 is not that critical, you just want it as low on the sear as you can get it. This will give you the best possible leverage, meaning the lightest possible effort.

Fixel is correct, the lpr has a 1/8" -27 NTP (tapered pipe thread). It will take an "R" drill or a 21/64" drill and the tap is available at most hardware stores.

:cheers:

SithSteve

04-27-2008, 11:09 AM

Thank you both VERY MUCH!!!

FiXeL

04-27-2008, 11:16 AM

You're welcome. :cheers:

Fit the LPR to your liking, and make sure you mount the MPA-3 as low as possible for maximum leverage. Ideal is straight horizontal to reduce wear on the piston, but at a slight angle is ok. Mine will shoot full auto if the tank pressure is above 2K psi, LPR pressure is right, and with a RT on/off.

SithSteve

04-28-2008, 01:22 PM

OK... I have everything mounted and installed... when I air up the marker there is a leak coming from the MSV-2 (out of the small holes closest to the lever)... also, where should the QEV get connected? I initally mounted it to the LPR (like I have seen on others) and when I aired it up, it leaked BAD from the blow-off hole... but have since replaced it with the stock barb.

HELP!!!
Thanks!

FiXeL

04-28-2008, 01:27 PM

How high is your LPR pressure? If the pressure is too high, the MSV-2 will leak from that spot. Turn down the pressure, and increase untill the marker fires. Than add a tadd more for reliability and you should be set.

SithSteve

04-28-2008, 01:33 PM

When I tried that before, the MPA-3 doesn't cycle... I'll go try again and post my results.

SithSteve

04-28-2008, 03:26 PM

I got it figured out!!! It cycles like a dream now... seriously, this thing RIPS!!!

I'll get pics up later! :glare:

RogueFactor

08-18-2008, 09:45 PM

bump

longi

08-19-2008, 10:33 PM

The mounting angle of the MPA 3 is not that critical, you just want it as low on the sear as you can get it. This will give you the best possible leverage, meaning the lightest possible effort.

Fixel is correct, the lpr has a 1/8" -27 NTP (tapered pipe thread). It will take an "R" drill or a 21/64" drill and the tap is available at most hardware stores.

:cheers:

Been doing some more testing moving the MPA-3 around the frame and i'm starting to think that there is in fact a sweet spot position for it to go. I have been getting varying results when moving it around the frame. Basically i'm trying to evolve this mod. I have a couple of interesting ideas to enhance the ROF. If one of them works it could be quite exciting, but i'm treading on dodgy ground with it so i can't elaborate on it right now. :-(

longi

08-24-2008, 12:06 PM

Actually i will elaborate. This is all to satisfy my own curiosity and nothing more. What i'm trying to do is eliminate the gun from going full auto when ever i turn up then input pressure on my Dynaflow reg past 750psi. The gun's firepower when the tank reg is set to 750 psi is pretty good, around 9-12 bps. Adequate you might say. To get it to fire 12 bps at a sustained rate you still have to find the "sweet spot" for it. What i want to do is take away the sweet spot so when you pull the trigger it fires everytime no matter what. It really does take alot of practice and concentration to fire fast. Just for the record i've been tinkering around with Pneumags now for 3 years almost to the day infact. Now that the G-force frame is here it shows how it should and can be done.

1.So what i thought i'd do was erm...Borrow a couple of ideas! Namely moving back to using the MSV-1 and mounting it to the top of the frame, by milling out some of the metal where the rear of the safety is, so the MSV-1 can slot straight in. The MSV-1 is then activated by the excess meat of the trigger shoe by the safety. Springs or magnets will be used to return the sear.

2. Moving the MPA-3 to a much lower position in the frame so a lower input pressure from the LPR can used to activate the sear. I'll be needing to make a clamp fitting to hold the MPA-3 in place, and i'll need to find a way of screwing the said clamp fitting in place.

3. Garf used a sear extender in his setup, i would assume to lower the LPR input pressure so that the actuator is able to operate alot quicker. I'm going to try using the G-force extender as i don't really have the tools to make one.

4. I'll still be using the QEV in the setup in its standard format.

Hopefully this will work as the runaway with the gun is driving me mad, but i really want a better performing homebrew frame.
So i guess i'm probably treading dodgy ground with this idea, although i have no ambition to make or sell frames. It's purely to satisfy my own curisoty and to stop me from being bored. I need to tinker!!

What do you guys think? Any ideas?

RogueFactor

08-24-2008, 07:26 PM

What do you guys think? Any ideas?

I thought Pneumags eliminated runaway? Youre getting runaway with the cyberrave kit?

longi

08-25-2008, 05:27 AM

I don't think the Cyberave kit will make any difference as the actuator isn't moving to rest quickly enough. Too much air in the actuator and the return spring is fighting or being delayed in returning the actuator bolt to it's rest position. Don't get me wrong 9-13 bps is pretty quick, i'm just curious to see if it can be made quicker by changing the physics aspect around a bit. Eliminating the bounce and the the trigger pull sweet spot so that the conversion is more responsive is the aim.

FiXeL

08-25-2008, 09:40 AM

I thought Pneumags eliminated runaway? Youre getting runaway with the cyberrave kit?

Could be possible. My pneumag goes full auto sometimes. I am suspecting the Guerilla Air ambush regs i'm using, because this only happens when there's more than 3K in the tank, and setting the LPR pressure a bit lower than i usually do. (also to prevent this) I think the reg gives out a wee bit more output if there's more than 3K psi in the tank. Therefore, the full auto effect could be caused by the on/off that makes the gun go RT-ing against the MPA-3, that gives just enough force to keep the F/A going.

longi

08-25-2008, 01:50 PM

Could be possible. My pneumag goes full auto sometimes. I am suspecting the Guerilla Air ambush regs i'm using, because this only happens when there's more than 3K in the tank, and setting the LPR pressure a bit lower than i usually do. (also to prevent this) I think the reg gives out a wee bit more output if there's more than 3K psi in the tank. Therefore, the full auto effect could be caused by the on/off that makes the gun go RT-ing against the MPA-3, that gives just enough force to keep the F/A going.

Agreed, the flow rate of an adjustable tank is far greater than a preset reg. It also makes no difference whether i use the RT on/off of an Emag on/off. As i use the LX10 with the hardest spring, my preset CF Hyperflow reg isn't man enough to allow the trigger to be walked. Hence i use the CF Dynaflow reg now. If I set the LPR pressure too low it won't fire, if it's set just right the gun goes fully auto! so then I have to adjust the Dynaflow pressure to aroun 750 psi or there abouts untill it stops going fully auto. Yes the fire power is adequate at this setting, but then why have adequate when you can have sensational! And homemade to boot!