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View Full Version : FiXeL's ULE Rail milling V.2.0


FiXeL
11-28-2007, 01:41 PM
Having access to CNC milling machines has its advantages. So what do you do with rails that could lose some fat? Well slap em in a clamp and start milling! :D

My first attempt was ok, but in a way a bit crude:

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/FiXeL666/DSCN3241.jpg

It's ULE, but due to the time i had to mill it, it's far from perfect. I thought this would be the only rail i would ever mill, so i deleted the program... Hmm, i really wish i didnt do that because last month i got myself a emag with a very massive style rail... :wall:

Oh well, gives me some time to improve on the contours and making it universal for multiple style rails. During work i sometimes have some spare time to do some programming, and i used that for the basis of my variable program to mill out every style rails i ever would come across. The basics are simple milling movements, but i've also incorporated "Q" parameters that can be assigned, added, substracted, multiplied, divided, cause a sub program (label) jump if a Q value is less, greater, equal or not equal to a defined value. You can even write mathmatical formula's with it.

What this means is you can define values at the start of the program to mill out certain stuff. Like: if Q90=90 it will mill a classic style rail, if Q90=91 a RT style rail, and so on. Also you can add things like milling the twistlock pin hole out or not, or drill holes for the front bottle adapter, or a slot. Also pocketing a rail out in multiple steps can be done with parameters, stopping when the desired depth is achieved.

Anyway, due to time limitations i only got to make the program so far for RT style rails, but i saved it so i can always add other stuff later. And the result?

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/FiXeL666/DSCN3436.jpg

Not too bad. I left the twistlock pin hole, and added a front bottle adapter slot, and a groove over the twistlock pin for pneu hose. I know i could mill out the part around the sear, but i left it there for sear guidance, and stuctural strength.

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/FiXeL666/DSCN3438.jpg

It still has some points that could be improved, but so far i'm sathisfied with the result. So whattaya think? Any comments or suggestions to improve on it are highly appriciated. :hail: I have a classic rail at work that's up next for milling, dunno when i get the time to do that one.

guseppe16
11-28-2007, 02:07 PM
Something about seeing freshly milled pieces...makes me want to let out a Tim 'Tool-Man' Taylor grunt.

I can't offer any ways to improve the design. I can only say that I admire the skill you have to run those machines.

tymcneer
11-29-2007, 08:29 AM
Very nice work. Eventually I'll get around to setting up my 4 axis CNC... eventually.

Ty

wooky
11-29-2007, 07:44 PM
Looking good Fixel! I only have layman style machines at my house. Wished I could afford the CNC's.

Cyberave68
11-29-2007, 07:55 PM
VERY NICE!!!! :candle: (I'm so jelous!!!)

you could lose a little more fat by removing some of the area around where the sear goes. You mostly just need to leave where the axel pin goes through. and if its for a Emag even more in these areas...

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m176/Cyberave68/DSC01538.jpg

FiXeL
11-30-2007, 11:14 AM
Wow... That's very ULE! Personally i would not go that far because i feel it could weaken the rail too much. Not that many forces are applied to it, because its bolted between the body and valve, and the gripframe but i think loosing too much material would make it too weak. I see your rails does not have the "island" anymore, where you bolt the body onto. I feared that milling this away could warp the body if the screw is overtightened. Is it troublesome to get the body on?

Thanks for the pic, it gave me some new ideas of what more i could mill. Maybe i'll also go a little deeper with my cuts. I've measured the total height of the rail to be 16,3mm (sorry we have the metric system) and cut to 13mm depth. It can be cut deeper, but i wanted this rail to be useable with a front grip, so i left about 0.13" of wall thickness on the bottom for strength. But the rest could be milled deeper and areas like the rear of the sear groove and z groove could be improved.

Cyberave68
11-30-2007, 05:10 PM
:hail:Wow... That's very ULE! Personally i would not go that far because i feel it could weaken the rail too much. Not that many forces are applied to it, because its bolted between the body and valve, and the gripframe but i think loosing too much material would make it too weak. I see your rails does not have the "island" anymore, where you bolt the body onto. I feared that milling this away could warp the body if the screw is overtightened. Is it troublesome to get the body on?

It can be cut deeper, but i wanted this rail to be useable with a front grip, so i left about 0.13" of wall thickness on the bottom for strength. But the rest could be milled deeper and areas like the rear of the sear groove and z groove could be improved.

Yea i got this rail pre-uled by someone else???:confused: the "island as you called it was missing when i got the rail. So that made it perfect for a tester cut with no worries if i messed it up.:D As for the depth i leave about .090"(2.28mm) with out any problems. I left about .125" (3.18mm) on the sides for support. As for over tightening it. No way you can actually do that and mess the rail up. The threads on a ULE body will strip out first. As for getting the body on its no different as you still have the front frame mount hole there to guide you. The "island" is a good way to keep it's strength with out any compromise. I'm more on the exteme side, but some of us like all the extra fat removed...lol :twocents:
Glad i could help you out on some ideas, hope to see your next works soon...:hail:

guseppe16
11-30-2007, 05:27 PM
Damn Cyberave! That thing's thinner than Kate Moss! Does it disappear when you turn it sideways? :p

Dark Side
11-30-2007, 10:33 PM
I dig it. Good work.

Mechanic79
12-13-2007, 06:25 AM
Nice work.

I've linked to a picture here (http://kemicalreaction.com/LukesMachine/PB260002.jpg) so you can see some different styles of ULE milling on Emag rails. I've had and used the rail on the far right for years. never had any issues.

warbeak2099
12-13-2007, 01:09 PM
Cyber do you still do ULE milling on rails?

tymcneer
12-13-2007, 01:43 PM
I found the Ultra ULE AM/MM rail we created, and will get pictures tonight.

Ty