Xvalve problems... I think...

[iridehyperlite07]

I just received my Xvalve, LVL 10, and intelli frame. I installed all of it on my RT rail with ULE body. I have tried just about EVERY shim combination on both the ULT and the LVL 10, but I still can't get it right. I gassed it up and pulled the trigger but nothing happened. Its like the sear is not engaging the ULT pin enough to push the bolt forward. I am using the smallest carrier without it leaking and have lubed everything I could possibly lube. My tank is at about 2000 psi so I know it is putting out enough pressure, and I can hear the air enter the gun when the tank pin engages, no leaks, but no action. I unscrewed the velocity adjuster on the back of the valve as far as I could to force as much air out of it as I can, but it won't even leak out the back of the gun like one that has too much pressure. I don't know what else to try. Could it still just be shims that are the problem? I have checked all the O-rings and made sure that everything was put together right. HELP!

[RogueFactor]

Make sure your tank is a HP tank with an output of 800 or more. Most guns dont require this, but mags do. For example, the red label Crossfires are HP(~800), the blue labels are LP(~400 psi). If you had a blue label, even with 2000 psi in the tank it wouldnt work.

Counter-clockwise turns(unscrewing) of the velocity turns the velocity down. You want to turn clockwise to turn the velocity up.

First I suggest removing the reg pin and oiling it.(#27 - http://www.pblegion.com/showthread.php?t=2969). If those o-rings are dry, they can fit tightly and cause issue.

Then Id make sure to use the gold spring on your Level 10. Its the only spring of the 3 that work for all velocities. The other 2 do not.

Every single marker with the symptoms you are experiencing have not been a shim issue for me.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

[iridehyperlite07]

Thanks Rogue. I am currently using the red spring, but I will change it up now. I shot it out of air last night so I will have to go get some more today and see if I can get it to work after oiling the reg internals. I know for sure that I am using a HP tank because I used it on my older classic mag and it worked perfectly, and I also bought it as a HP tank. I know what you're saying with the air though, it seems like it is being starved of air and that is not letting the pin from the ULT come down to reactivate the trigger. I will just screw the velocity all the way in again and see if I can even get it to bleed out the back. I'll fill you in tonight when I have air and get it tested again. Thanks!

[Mann]

Defiantly start out with the gold spring. Put the 2 dot carrier with no shims in the lvl X. Start out with 1 shim in your ult. When you gas up your marker and your sear engages your trigger. How much space is between your trigger and the sear arm? You want it about the thickness of a credit card. Adjust your sear to that length. After doing so turn up your velocity until your marker will shoots. (also remember that in(clockwise) will increase your velocity)

Along with the orings that Rogue suggested. oil the ult, and the lvl 10 carrier orings. Also double check that you put the white spacer in, then the lvlX carrier (the correct way) then the tip. There should only be 2 orings in the power tube (1 urethane inside the carrier, and one black one on the outside). When installed correctly your level X bolt should just have a slight bit of drag on the power tube.

[iridehyperlite07]

Totally off the topic of the gun problems, but if I need to replace my bolt bumper can I use one out of my classic or does the xvalve need a special one?

[RogueFactor]

Totally off the topic of the gun problems, but if I need to replace my bolt bumper can I use one out of my classic or does the xvalve need a special one?

Many have used them interchangeably. The softer XValve bumper was meant for higher rates of fire.

[Mann]

Did you get it working? what was wrong?

[iridehyperlite07]

Ugh, its been a long week... I haven't got it working because I haven't been able to work on it. My sister (24) had some pretty serious medical issues arise last week and has been in the hospital for nearly two weeks now. Long story short, I haven't spent much time at home between going to the hospital and working graveyard shift... I will update when I get a minute to fill the tank and work on it.

[ajnin]

my guide to tune a level 10. Quoted from a old post somewhere else. Consider it your bible to level tens. Please for craps sake. Get a rt on/offbefore trying to tune your level 10. It does not make sense to try and tune twotemper-menta parts at the same time. Once your level 10 is tuned, then remove the rt on/off and tune the ult. I don't know the awesome equation for a ult...sorry.


dont read anything else...

-always use the same oring unless you see physical damage or you cannot go down any lower in carriers.
-remove shims.
-start at the 2.5 carrier (2 lines 1 dot)
-put everything back together and air it up
-if there is still leaking down the barrel go down to a 2 carrier (2 lines)
-put everything back together and air it up
-if there is still leaking down the barrel go down to a 1.5 carrier (1 line 1 dot)
-keep going down in carriers it you get to the carrier with no markings and its still leaking start over with a 2.5 carrier and a new oring.
-once you tune your carrier then you can tune your level 10
-stick squeegee (don't put your finger in it. it still hurts and at this point may break it or worse.) in the feed and fire
-if it feels like its going to chop a ball, add a shim. keep adding shims until your satisfied with the bolt resistance against your squeegee.
-if you get bolt stick, remove a shim.


EDIT: I just reread this and realized one thing more I take into consideration when tuning a mag... Start with the long silver spring. I have found that you can tune on it and then back off your velocity when you switch to the level 10/gold spring. Seems like it provides a bit more stable of a shot over the chorny and better air usage.

[iridehyperlite07]

Got the gun aired up now.:banana: I took the entire valve apart, lubed it all HEAVILY, put some lube down in the ASA to run it through the gun. It will shoot, but then arose more problems (kinda). When I first gassed it up and pulled the trigger it went full auto with every pull, not even pushing the trigger forward at all (not in the way the response is supposed to work). I adjusted the velocity input on the back of the valve down to a more normal input and it now shoots semi with no response (I know I just need to adjust the LVLX, but will the ULT change that too?)

Also, I am having some bolt stick where the spring won't push the bolt all the way back against the bumper so that the sear catches. I am using the silver long spring currently and have both the gold and red springs for adjustment, but from what I understand (which could be wrong) the silver should be the one that most easily pushed the bolt back against the bumper. Like I said, gun works, but now comes the tedious tuning part.:wall: Thanks for all your help!