Replacing Classic on/off with RT on/off

[warbeak2099]

I have an RT on/off and I just popped out the Classic and popped in the RT. Did I have to mess with the o-rings in the on/off area? There was one white o-ring above the on/off. I slid the Classic on/off out and slid the RT on/off in. Is this right?

Also, in order to switch from lvl 10 to lvl 7, all I have to do is take out the lvl 10 components and put in:

Lvl 7 powertube o-ring
Lvl 7 spacer
Lvl 7 powertube tip

Right?

[BigEvil]

IIRC the two orings are the same. Ive used a classic with the RT on/off before, works perfect and the trigger pull is a little better.

[warbeak2099]

Right so I just slide the classic out and slide the RT in. Boom bang no problems.

[BigEvil]

Right so I just slide the classic out and slide the RT in. Boom bang no problems.

Yup. For an even better trigger, try replacing the small on/off top oring with an emag quad oring :oneear:

[warbeak2099]

Well it's for a pneumag so I just want the valve to be able to shoot a little faster. I heard RT on/offs will increase recharge a wee bit. Or did I just waste $30 on something that makes the trigger feel better lol?

[Spider]

I think there are two things about the RT on/off for the pneu.

One is the lighter pull (4 lb versus 8 lb iirc) means less pressure on the LPR and less on the MSV-2 return.

Second is that the classic on/off is at least difficult to get it to cycle quickly, if the recharge is not a problem. If it was only recharge, you could bore the top out and fix that.

I think the main problem is the diameter of the pin. The fat pin in the classic on/off has a lot of drag in the sealing oring in the bottom of the on/off. By using the smaller oring in the RT, you get about half the friction when the pin is clear of the top oring. That bottom oring is squeezed in there pretty well. I've pulled old ones out that had wide contact areas on the inner diameter, so the effect of pin drag should be greater in the bottom than the top in first place.

The ULT can go too far in a classic valve. When you shoot paint and the residual pressure is higher, the extra area on the bottom of the ULT pushes up on the on/off pin more than the RT on/off pin. Without the RT effect to kick the ULT pin back out, the return can be 'lazy', especially with new orings.

**edit**

...no, an RT on/off is not a waste on a pneumag. You might make a classic work, but the RT is usually necessary and always worth the design margin.

[warbeak2099]

Excellent, thanks!