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Old 02-04-2010, 07:49 PM
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BonesJackson BonesJackson is offline
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The Complete Matrix - Technical Data, Maintenance, and Performance




Matrix Tuning, Care & Maintenance

Hello and welcome to the tech thread. This is the first revision of this article. As such, it may see edits and additions throughout time. Please give us your feedback, and stay tuned. Thanks!

Matrix Bolt ID & Explanation
-Matrix Bolt & O-ring Breakdown (how it works and what each part does)
-Matrix Bolt Cycle (animation & explanation)
-Aardvark Slam Bolt Part Breakdown (how it works and what each part does)
-Aardvark Slam Bolt Cycle(animation & explanation)


-Leak Guide (it's leaking and I can't figure it out!!)
-LPR Tuning
(what it does and how to set it properly)
-Front Pulse, Back Pulse
(aka dwell and Rate of Fire)
-First Shot Drop Off
(when the first ball you fire falls to the ground 10 feet from you)
-FAQ & General Tips
(this is the stuff that no one reads and then makes posts asking about it)

Modifying your Matrix
-DIY Eye Installation
-DIY Bolt Mods

Parts & Grease
-Lubricants & O-Rings


To Do List:
-Bolt disassembly and reassembly pictures, lubrication, maybe video
-DIY Bolt mods (top hat, plug, etc)
-Stupid UL Frame mod (low priority)
-I have a Matrix. What upgrades should I get?

Updates:
3/25/11 fleshed out Dwell subsection.

Last edited by BonesJackson : 03-25-2011 at 08:14 AM.
  #2  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:49 PM
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Bolt parts in a Matrix and what they do


Front Wall
-Outside #23
Seals against chamber tube; prevents low pressure air from leaking out of front beer can chamber.
- Inside #17 quad
Seals low pressure air in between itself and the bolt.


Beer Can
The closest thing to a conventional ram in most guns. Low pressure air typically fills up the front half of this. When the solenoid valve actuates, air is drained from the front and filled in the back half. Because of the bolt sail o-ring, the bolt slides forward. When the solenoid valve closes, air is once again redirected to the front chamber, and a full bolt cycle completes. The two outside #23 o-rings stop cross-contamination of low pressure air.


Top Hat
Is a barrier between the high pressure air from the shot chamber and the low pressure air in the beer can. Drains the shot chamber that propels the paintball when the bolt is at its forward apex. The top hat's external diameter determines volume of air in shot chamber.
-External #23
Seals against chamber tube, preventing cross contamination of low pressure air from back of beer can and high pressure air from shot chamber.
-#17 quad
Seals low pressure air in between itself and the bolt. Along with the bolt sail this is an o-ring that you aim to have the least friction on the bolt while still allowing an air tight seal.
-Inner #13
Seals high pressure air in between itself and the bolt stem. When the HPR is turned up very high, it can put too much strain on this o-ring and cause it to blow out.


Sleeve
Keeps Bolt Stop far enough away from the Top Hat.


Spacer/Bolt Stop
Stops the bolt on back and forward apex. The side with the indentation faces towards the front of the gun.


Rear Wall
Is a barrier between the pre-dump chamber and the shot chamber when the bolt is at forward apex. Allows the transfer of air between pre-dump chamber and shot chamber when the bolt is resting.
-External #23
Prevents cross-contamination between shot chamber and pre-dump chamber.


Back Plug
Stops high pressure air leaking out the back of the gun. Shape of its front affects flow of air from pre-dump chamber to shot chamber.
-External #23
Prevents air from leaking past the threading and out of the back of the gun.


Bolt, by o-ring
-#14 bolt tip
Seals the front of the breech off when the bolt is at its forward apex and prohibits the air pushing the paintball down the barrel from escaping out the feed neck.
-#13, 14, or 15 Bolt Sail (depending on setup)
Seals low pressure air against the inside of the beer can so it may act as a ram and cycle the bolt back and forward depending on incoming air from the solenoid valve. Ideally use the smallest side that still provides an airtight seal.
-#8, 9, or 10 Bolt tail (front)
Seals high pressure air against inside of rear wall, keeping the gun from draining extra air from the pre-dump chamber.
-#8, 9, or 10 Bolt tail (rear)
Prevents air leaking out the guide hole in the back plug.

Last edited by Z-man : 02-04-2010 at 08:02 PM.
  #3  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:50 PM
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Q: There are no springs or sears or anything. How does this crazy thing work?

A: Magic.

Real Answer: It's really not as complicated as it looks. Visual aids are often helpful, so some people make helpful animated .gifs that show the flow of air as a gun cycles. To understand it, one must need only follow the air. Note: In the animated .gif, the Beer Can is installed backwards. The longer end should point towards the front of the gun.

The air starts at the tank where it is fed into the HPR. The HPR regulates it down to operating pressure ~200 psi. From there, the air goes into a small chamber at the front of the gun. From here the air goes two directions. Some of the air is fed into the LPR, Low Pressure Regulator. That air pressure is reduced to as little as 60psi. We'll revisit that later.

The rest of the air feeds into the right side air chamber and goes to the back of the gun. It comes in on the right wall of the gun, in a small chamber created by the rear wall and back plug. Because the bolt is in the back (resting) position, the air also goes through the hole in the center of the rear wall and fills up the shot chamber with air. The shot chamber is the volume of air that occupies the space between the outside of the top hat and the rear wall.

Back to the low pressure air. The low pressure air goes to the very back of the LPR and is fed into the manifold. Think of the manifold as a solid metal replica of the 3 hoses that come off an Autococker 4 way valve. Air goes in one from the LPR and goes out one of two output holes. When the solenoid valve is off, the low pressure air is fed up to the front of the beer can and ensures the bolt is being pushed backwards.

So, to recap: Low pressure air is in the front of the beer can pushing the bolt back, and both air chambers in the bolt assembly are full of air at operating pressure. This is the gun in its ready-to-fire state.



When the trigger is pulled, everything begins to change rapidly. The trigger is just a microswitch being flipped on. The electronics board reads this input and sends a signal to the solenoid valve. The solenoid turns on and redirects the flow of the low pressure air. Think of this as the Autococker 4-way changing the airflow to the ram. The low pressure air is re-routed to the hole leading to the back of the beer can. Air under pressure naturally wants to expand, and the only way for it to do that is to push the bolt forward via the bolt sail o-ring. The bolt moving forward, because of its unique shape, sets a number of other things into play.



As the bolt travels forward, notice the area at the small end of the top hat. It tapers. As the diameter of the bolt tapers and becomes physically smaller than the top hat hole, air rushes inside the bolt and through its core. This air blasts the paintball out of the breech and down the barrel. This drains the air that was stored in the shot chamber. This would drain the air in the back chamber as well, if it weren't for the forward o-ring on the bolt tail. As the bolt goes forward, it seals the inside of the rear wall, sealing off the chamber and preventing the gun from continually pouring air out of the gun, limiting it to only just what is needed to propel the paintball.



The solenoid valve redirects air for as long as the user set the dwell. Typically this is 15 milliseconds, so this whole chain of events happens in 15 milliseconds. After this, the solenoid powers off. When this happens, the low pressure air is re-routed to the front of the beer can. This pushes the bolt backwards to its resting position. As the bolt goes back, the part inside the top hat once again becomes sealed against the o-ring. The bolt tail retreats to the back plug, and the hole between the back air chamber and the shot chamber again becomes unobstructed. Air rushes into the empty shot chamber to refill it for the next shot.

This entire process can happen up to 25 times per second.

Last edited by Z-man : 02-04-2010 at 08:03 PM.
  #4  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:50 PM
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Aardvark Slam Bolt Breakdown


Just when you thought you had the traditional Matrix bolt figured out, here is the Slam to confuse and disturb you. Fear not; we'll guide you through this as well.

Part Breakdown



Front Wall and Beer Can
The Front Wall and Beer can are identical to the ones found on the traditional Matrix bolt. Not only that, they're interchangeable. Any Front Wall and Beer Can combo will do. Got a KAPP Bio-sleeve? That'll work.



Top Hat
The Top Hat is different in that the air opening is tiny. it's only as big as the bolt stem. This is because the bolt has no taper and, as you can see, actually comes completely out of the Top Hat during the shot. Crazy, I know.



Slam Ring
The Slam Ring is similar to the Bolt Stop. It acts as a spacer for the Slam Bolt (back half).



Recharge Tube (Sleeve)
The Sleeve has been moved and renamed the Recharge Tube. It is now in the back of the gun. In order for the air to come in from the air chamber, the sleeve had to be lathed down and have holes drilled into it to accept airflow.



Back Plug
The Back Plug's hole is significantly narrowed. Due to the length of the Slam Bolt, the people at Aardvark were unable to use the traditional hex head for unscrewing in back. Instead, they fashioned a two-prong tool that sold with the bolt. Failing that, they cut a long groove in which you could use a giant flat-head screwdriver or even a quarter.


The bolt is broken into two pieces: Front Bolt and Slam Bolt.



Front Bolt

The Front Bolt is similar at first to the traditional Matrix bolt. After all, it still interacts with the Beer Can the same way, and the Top Hat's function is similar. However, instead of a taper point, the bolt just goes all the way into the top hat to let air in.



Slam Bolt
The Slam Bolt disc section is what's really interesting. The user has the option of half a dozen different o-ring sizes that can be used on the bolt's outer ring, depending on efficiency, sound signature, or recoil desires. Another thing we learned is that the 2 o-rings that seal the Slam Bolt shaft are redundant and one can be removed (this is not explained in the original manual but was dug up from an early post by Greg Duncan)


Last edited by Z-man : 04-29-2011 at 11:58 PM.
  #5  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:50 PM
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Aardvark Slam Bolt - How it Works



Remember air still comes in the Matrix the same way at all times. The air is regulated in the LPR and is still actuated by the solenoid up into the beer can which, as we learned earlier, acts as a ram for the bolt. The high pressure air still comes into the back of the gun near the rear plug. Air from the shot chamber is still drained when the opening in the small end of the top hat becomes unobstructed. Let's break it down further.

In its resting, or ready-to-fire state, the bolt is in the back position. The solenoid is off and directing air to the front of the Beer Can. The Slam Bolt is pushed back. Both the pre-dump chamber and the shot chamber are full of high pressure air.

The user pulls the trigger and activates the solenoid valve. Air is redirected to the back of the Beer Can, pushing the Front Bolt forward. When the bolt reaches its apex, the back tip of it opens up the hole in the small end of the Top Hat, and shot chamber air is drained to fire the paintball. SIMULTANEOUSLY, the Slam Bolt suddenly realizes there is nothing obstructing it anymore. The high pressure air coming in from the right side air chamber naturally wants to expand, and does so by shoving the giant disc part of the Slam Bolt forward. It travels forward until it stops at the Slam Ring. The Slam Bolt reaching the Slam Ring closes a valve. This is similar in the traditional Matrix bolt to when the front o-ring on the bolt tail reaches the Rear Wall; it seals off the pre-dump chamber from the shot chamber.

The solenoid deactivates and redirects air to the front of the Beer Can, and the Front Bolt begins to retract. This is when the Front Bolt "slams" the Slam Bolt. This accelerates the air creep around the edge of the Slam Bolt disc and quickly recharges the shot chamber, making the gun ready to fire.

It is very important to note that air is intentionally creeps around the edge of the disc in the Slam Bolt. This is how the shot chamber recharges. Understand that with a #15,16, & 17 o-ring the slam ring will not feel like it is sealing around the shot tube. It will rattle around and feel incorrect, but this IS in fact how it is designed to operate. Using a #15 o-ring on this will result in an ultra-low sound signature and nearly non-existant kick, but will lower your efficiency. Increasing the size of the o-ring up to a #19 will louden the gun and increase kick, but will also increase efficiency, user's choice.

This can happen up to 15 times per second. The 15bps cap was 100% intentional, as the Slam Bolt was designed to adhere to X-Ball regulations.

Q: Ok, uh, I think I understand how it works. How does this make the bolt immune to first shot drop off, a problem that affects so many other spool valve guns?

A: Excellent question. The Slam Bolt, unlike the traditional Matrix bolt, is an Unbalanced Spool Valve. There is constant forward pressure on the bolt. The Slam Bolt itself (back part, giant disc) wants to go forward as soon as any pressure drops in the shot chamber. As soon as the Front Bolt begins to travel forward, the back half of the Front Bolt begins to recede into the Top Hat. Even this small volume of metal lost begins to reduce the pressure in the shot chamber.

The Slam Bolt still has full pressure from the air chamber pushing it from behind, so it shoves the Front Bolt out working in conjunction with the Solenoid Valve. The animation above is a little bit deceptive in that regard; don't trust it completely.

Important note about Dwell
The Slam Bolt's feel is heavily impacted by dwell settings on your board, more than any other bolt kit. Lowering the Slam's dwell to 10 milliseconds is the "sweet spot" for the bolt kit. There is a phenomenal difference in feel between even 10 and 15 ms.



Last edited by BonesJackson : 09-11-2010 at 09:28 PM.
  #6  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:50 PM
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Leak Guide
(Directly and shamelessly copied from MatrixOwner.com Original Leak Guide found here)


Front of Bolt & Down the Barrel
• LED - Original Stock Bolt
o Replace #12 Inner Top Hat o-ring
• LCD/DM3 – Aardvark (Red/Blue) / Black Bolt
o Replace #13 Inner Top Hat o-ring

Front Wall Near Bolt
• Replace #17 o-ring on Inner Front Wall. This o-ring can be a quad or standard round o-ring. Make sure there are no scratches on the bolt between the bolt sail and bolt tip.

Front Wall & Body
• Replace the #23 o-ring on outside of front wall

Backplate - Rear Plug Hole
• Replace the rear most o-ring on the tip of the plunger with a #9 or #10 ONLY IF THE BOLT DOES NOT SEAL AFTER A #9

Around Back Plug
• Replace #23 o-ring on rear plug

Grip Frame
• Replace #15 o-ring on bolt sail
• Replace #8 or #9 o-ring on end of LPR (seals to manifold)
• Replace #3 o-ring on manifold

Dead & Live Transfer Chamber Plugs
• Replace #8 o-ring

Transfer Spool Plug
• LED STYLE ONLY - NO LPR - USED INSERTED TRANSFER PLUG
o Replace #15 o-ring on transfer plug

ASA
• Replace #14 o-ring on top of ASA after removing from marker
• Apply small amount of blue loctite to threads of mounting screw
• Be sure mounting screw is not threading too far into body. If the screw is too long, it will carve into the LPR just above it.

Live Chamber Eye Screw
• Send back to DYE for maintenance/repair

Bolt Tip - Soundless - Affecting Efficiency
• Replace bolt tip o-ring with a #13

Plunger - Soundless - Affecting Efficiency
• Replace with #9 o-ring

Extremely Erratic Velocity Fluctuations +/- 250 FPS
• Beer can is in backwards.

Puffs of Air Released From The Rear of Grip Frame
• These air puffs are from the two holes under the black plate of your Matrix, they are the solenoid vents which dump excess air. You will feel them throw air on your hand when you fire. It is perfectly normal.

Last edited by Z-man : 05-11-2011 at 10:04 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:50 PM
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LPR Setting & Adjustment

The LPR on the Matrix exists solely to lower the pressure used to push the bolt back and forth each cycle. The LPR takes the air from the HPR and drops it down to as low as 50-60psi. This results in several things:
  • Less air is used to push the bolt back and forth (greater efficiency).
  • The bolt strikes the paintballs with less force hopefully reducing ball breakage.
  • Less pressure is on the bolt when it smacks into the bolt stop. This reduces bolt wear and breakage.
  1. Turn the HPR all the way down so all air is restricted, no air is feeding into the gun.
  2. Turn the LPR all the way up so it restricts no air at all, just like it did not exist.
  3. Slowly turn the HPR up until it fires. Raise it until it fires at the correct chronograph field limit.
  4. Lower the LPR until it begins to affect velocity. Once you notice velocity dropping due to LPR tuning, open the LPR up about ¼ turn.
  5. Go play.

Last edited by BonesJackson : 02-04-2010 at 07:55 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:51 PM
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Front Pulse, Back Pulse & Efficiency
(also known as dwell and rate of fire)

When researching more about the Matrix, several terms may be thrown around. In particular: front pulse, back pulse, dwell, and rate of fire (ROF). The former two terms are antiquated, and have since been replaced by the latter two.


Front Pulse (old term)
This describes the time, in milliseconds, the bolt spends at its forward apex. When the bolt is fully forward, air is being transferred from the shot chamber and propelling the paintball forward. In essence, this is when air is being used in the gun. The less time this is open, the less air is used.

Dwell (new term)
In exchange for the term Front Pulse, the term Dwell was adopted to describe how long the solenoid valve is active or on. This is still measured in milliseconds. Dwell is only ever altered to change efficiency or shoot down.

==================================================
==================================================


Back Pulse (old term)
This describes how long the bolt must remain in its fully back or resting position. This actually controls the rate of fire. The lower the back pulse, the less time the bolt is forced to remain fully cocked, and the more times it can be cycled per second.

Rate of Fire -ROF- (new term)
This term was likely adopted because it’s a lot easier to understand than the ambiguous "back pulse". Instead of milliseconds, this is measured in balls per second. Make no mistake; this is the exact same setting as back pulse. It’s just easier to calculate and control.

==================================================
==================================================


Why should I mess with these / Why do I care?

Explanation for a traditional bolt
There are a couple reasons you might want to change the dwell. If you raise the dwell to an obscenely high number, say 50 milliseconds, it totally ensures all air in the shot chamber will be emptied for each shot. This leaves little chance for shootdown.. but it also means you won't be shooting much more than about 12bps because the solenoid is open so long. The other downside is that it is horribly, horribly inefficient.

On the flipside if the user lowers the dwell to something obscenely low, like 6 milliseconds, the efficiency would be marvelous... if you can even get the bolt to fully cycle. Basically the lower the dwell (below say 14-12ms range) the more likely the bolt will not fully cycle and empty the shot chamber, pushing the ball out of the barrel with an insufficient force of air or not at all. You might have to raise your LPR to make the bolt cycle faster which is harder on the paint as well. The real trick is to get the dwell low enough but still sustains the user’s rate of fire. This will grant the highest efficiency.

This is a good area for experimentation and tinkering. Many things will affect the dwell, such as bolt sail o-ring size as well as lubrication. If you don't like to tinker, a safe bet would be to set the dwell or front pulse at 15ms or thereabouts.

Explanation for a "modded" bolt
Why lower the dwell? The thought process is if you can partially drain the shot chamber and still get 280 fps out of the barrel each shot, you are saving air. This is the wrong way to address the problem. The right way is to make the correct volume of air in the shot chamber in the first place so there is none wasted. This can be accomplished by ghetto modding your top hat, using the Evolve top hat or X-93, or getting a KAPP top hat (my favorite) and adjusting it.

"Why?" you ask, "what is the downside of having a very low dwell?"

Good question. The lower the dwell, the less time you are giving your bolt to move, and especially less time to overcome things like bolt stick. To compensate for a lower dwell, you may have to raise your LPR to make the bolt move faster. It has less time to move the entire distance it needs to, so you have to make it move faster to do its job. This is harder on the bolt, harder on the paint, and makes more kick.

The user should be able to raise dwell substantially with no real side effects. You're just increasing the window of time for the bolt to complete its cycle. With a larger window of time, the bolt might not need to travel as hard and fast as before. This seems like a potential way to lower the LPR (reduced kick, softer on paint, less stress on bolt) with no real side effects.

Some bolt kits are inherently stickier than others. Evolve 1.1 delrin bolts, for example, are not nearly as smooth as their aluminum counterparts, and have a lot more friction against the o-rings. They are somewhat more prone to needing a little extra push to cycle completely, and most people just turn up the LPRs to compensate. Usually it's too high and the bolt wears over time and snaps. Many have broken Evolve delrin bolts.

The point is, if you reduce the volume of air in the shot chamber to an appropriate amount, the only downside to a higher dwell is that it'll eat up your 9 volt battery a tiny bit faster. It's not like the solenoid is drawing more low pressure air into the beer can with a longer dwell each shot. It's not like air is going to be leaking like a sieve from the pre-dump chamber either (assuming all o-rings are intact).

Last edited by BonesJackson : 03-25-2011 at 08:12 AM.
  #9  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:51 PM
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First Shot Drop Off

First shot drop off is a problem that many guns suffer from, including the Matrix. The reason for the Matrix FSDO is the grease that is used to lubricate the Matrix "settles" in the bolt when it has not been fired for as little as 5 seconds. When the grease settles, it sticks to the bolt and makes it harder for the air pressure sent from the LPR to overcome the stickiness and push the bolt forward. This would be similar to getting your foot stuck in the mud. In mild cases this results in the first shot being significantly lower velocity than the following shot (say 150-200fps). In more severe cases the bolt may not even move the first several shots. Variables that affect this problem are:
  1. The LPR pressure (being too low makes it slower cycling and harder to overcome the stickiness of the grease)
  2. Dwell (or Front Pulse)(being too short may not allow enough time for the bolt to move fully forward)
  3. ABS Dwell (if your board offers it) (if it's not on or too low may not compensate enough)
  4. The size of the o-rings that contact the bolt (i.e. everything but the #23 o-rings).
  5. Grease (thicker grease means it's harder to move the bolt)
  6. Outside temperature (the colder it is, the thicker the grease behaves)

LPR Pressure
Simply put, the higher your LPR is set, the more force there is driving the bolt. The higher the pressure, the more forcefully the bolt will be slammed back and forth. The higher the pressure, the more air is wasted per shot, lowering efficiency. It is also believed too high a pressure puts strain on the bolt, and has been known to physically snap them at the stem point. This can especially be a problem with the frail delrin Evolve 1.1 bolt.

Dwell
Raising this gives more time for the bolt to actuate. Again, raising this also wastes air. A tiny amount of air. Oh, and battery life. A tiny amount of battery life.

ABS Dwell
Offered on some aftermarket boards, Anti-Bolt-Stick, or ABS Dwell is a special setting designed to counter bolt stick and first shot drop off. When active, the board senses when the gun has not been fired for 15 seconds. At that point, it increases the dwell setting for the next shot the user fires. Assuming the LPR and HPR are set correctly, this will not spike velocity, but instead waste a little more air and try to ensure the bolt does a full cycle. Boards that offer this allow the user to select what dwell range they wish this shot to be. Whereas the user may normally be using a dwell of 15 ms, the ABS dwell could be set at 25 ms. This means after 15 seconds of inactivity, the very next fired will have a 25 ms dwell time, but all subsequent shots will be at 15 ms.

O-rings
The less friction there is on the bolt, the freer your bolt is to move within the gun. Reduced friction is attained several ways. Most notably it’s using the smallest possible o-ring on the bolt sail and bolt tail, and the largest possible o-rings on the front wall and both internal top hat o-rings. We also notice that the o-rings have a "wear in" period. They work fine when put in fresh but after 20,000+ shots they seat even nicer (i.e. smoother than when they first went in).

Grease
This one is not so easy. No one has figured out the definitive Matrix grease. Thicker grease is more prone to pooling, but also tends to be an overall better lubricant. Thinner grease may pool less, but may also lubricate the o-rings less. See main article: Grease.

Temperature
This goes hand in hand with grease. Sadly, the Matrix is a somewhat fickle beast. When it gets cold out, grease tends to congeal and become thicker, stiffer. In all likelihood, the Matrix will tend to stick more in cold weather. This may be a good time to test out that temperature gauge on your LCD board. "Why yes, it IS cold outside! Thanks, board!"

Last edited by BonesJackson : 11-30-2010 at 02:34 PM.
  #10  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:52 PM
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FAQ

Q: I want to add a UL Frame and a DM4 VAA to my gun, but I see no information at all about it in this article. What gives? You all a pack of lazy pigs?
A: No one currently working on this article likes the way that mod looks. Therefore we have no interest in such a mod. The only direction I can point you towards is a machinist I know of who will perform the service. He's a good guy. If you are willing to write up your own How-To with good quality pictures and explanation, we will be happy to add it and give you full credit. Until then, quit whining. No one cares.


Q: My velocity is spiking all over the place!
A: Change your battery.


Q: My gun just turned off for no reason!
A: Change your battery.


Q: Sometimes my gun shoots and sometimes it does not; I think my gun is possessed!
A: Change your battery.


Q: My solenoid isn't clicking! What's wrong?
A: Change your battery.


Q: I have an old gloss black blind Matrix with no serial number on the back and the solenoid isn't clicking. It's got a new battery and the board works. Why isn't it clicking?
A: There is a slim chance you have one of the very early Airtech guns that shipped with a NuMatics brand solenoid valve. They don't click. If it works (the gun cycles with air) you're good to go.


Q: Do I need a trigger spring?
A: No.


Q: Do I need a low pressure tank for this low pressure gun?
A: Not unless you like throwing money away on hype.

==========================================

Tips

The FIRST Place You Always Check if Your Matrix Leaks
Check the bolt sail o-ring. Check it for damage. If it is not damaged then go up 1 size and test the marker. If it still leaks check the bolt sail o-ring again because if it’s still leaking, you lied and did not actually check it the first time. Stop being a lazy bum, pull the bolt out and CHECK THE BOLT SAIL O-RING.

The Second Place You Always Check if Your Matrix Leaks
You probably didn't check the bolt sail o-ring, liar. On the off chance that you are not lying, use the leak guide.

The Back Plug That Screws Into Your Matrix
Often the back plug of your Matrix bolt will screw in farther than it should resulting in the bolt smacking the back of the plug. This can result in damage to the bolt and at the very least is hard on the system. A good rule of thumb is to back it off a full turn from fully screwed in or make the plug flush with the rest of the body.

Grease is Your Friend
After you have set up your Matrix the way you like, there is little to do to it. If you actually keep the thing cleaned and greased after each day of play, you will enjoy the marker without interruption. When the Matrix is neglected in lubrication, the o-rings wear and break and the bolt parts can begin to scrape on each other. Keep the marker greased and you will be happy.

A Fresh 9v is Worth its Weight in Gold
The SMC solenoids on the Matrix draw quite a bit of current and Matrix owners have found that they use up batteries fairly quickly. Even when other markers are able to cycle using a partly drained battery, the Matrix will not. Keep a fresh 9v in your marker or at least keep a fresh one with you. It’s one of THE most common things people forget.

An Important Note About o-ring Wear
Obviously you want to get the slide action that has the least friction within the gun. This can be accomplished by experimenting with the sizes of o-rings on certain key areas. However, there is another aspect to this altogether. O-rings wear down over time, very slightly. Think of it like breaking in a good baseball glove or a pair of shoes. It starts off fitting (technically), but after prolonged use really wears in and feels right.

Bolt and Top Hat O-rings from a gun that haven't been changed in 20,000 rounds slide exponentially smoother than any fresh o-rings. It is, therefore, in your best interest not to change o-rings unless you absolutely have to.

Last edited by Z-man : 03-09-2010 at 01:50 PM.
  #11  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:52 PM
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BonesJackson BonesJackson is offline
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Matrix Do-It-Yourself Eye Installation

Directly copied from MatrixOwner.com. Credit to Doby45 and Fisu.




First I would like to thank Fisu for the first section of this install guide. You simply could not do a better job explaining the drilling of the rear hole in the battery compartment. Anything in bold is something I simply added as a result of doing a few of these myself.
  • Open the three grip panel screws from the lcd screen side
  • Disconnect the battery and solenoid connector from the board
  • Open the two screws that hold the body to the frame and take off the frame
  • Screw the plugs out from both ends of the dead air chamber.
  • Take out the two screws holding the solenoid in place and remove the solenoid from the gun along with the wires and the battery connector. Be careful pulling out the wires so they don’t break. Plug the hole between the battery compartment and the solenoid compartment with paper towel to prevent shavings from even getting into that area.

  • Drill a hole to the dead air chamber for eye wires. This is easiest to do from the hole were solenoid and power wires are connected to the board. First drill two small holes in line and then drill them with a bit larger drill so the holes are connected to each other. The small white connector on the eye wires must fit through this hole, the bigger you make it the easier it is to get the connector through it.



  • After you have done the holes clean up all the metal shavings especially around the solenoid housing.
  • Then push the white connector into the dead air chamber from the front of the gun and when you see the connector thru the hole you drilled pull it up. Since we are talking about the Gen-E/Tadao style of eye installs you would need to feed the wires in from the hole that was drilled into the front breech area, NOT the open front of the dead air chamber. It should look like this:



The image below shows the location of the hole for the 2-piece style of breech. This includes ANY 2-piece breech style be it Gen-E, TMC, DYE, Evolve or Toxic. The hole should be 1/4" to 5/16th" and can be positioned by placing the carrier part of your 2-piece breech in the breech area where it belongs and marking the spot. I will get a pic of this.



Once the hole has been drilled you can run your wires from the front hole to the back hole. I find it easier to do this by removing the white plastic piece on the eye harness. This can be done easily by slightly lifting on the hold down tab on each of the wire spots on the connector. REMEMBER THE ORDER OF YOUR WIRES, THEY NEED TO GO BACK IN THE PLUG THE SAME WAY. Once the wires are through the dead air chamber you can put your white plug back on and install the eyes in the eye carrier. I will get pics of this process also.

Finally reassemble your marker.
  #12  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:53 PM
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Z-man Z-man is offline
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Saved for Bolt Mods Thread
  #13  
Old 02-04-2010, 07:53 PM
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BonesJackson BonesJackson is offline
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Proper lubrication is the single greatest factor in keeping your Matrix working. The goal is to find a grease with the lowest viscosity that stays in the marker after many cycles. Light silicone oil like AKA lube is fantastic stuff but it will blow out of the marker in relatively short order. On the other scale, DOW-33 is a highly viscous grease that will stay in the marker but requires you to bump your LPR settings up to overcome the stick it creates. Understand that all of this is only of significant concern if you care about efficiency and perhaps to a degree the “feel and sound” of the marker as it is cycled. Below are listed most of the greases available on the market today.

Motion Potion
Created by Gen-E / Toxic as their Matrix lubricant. Very light weight lubricant and more of an oil than a grease. Despite that, Toxic Dave swears by it. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be purchased through Cousins Paintball.

Aardvark Matrix Muck
Created by Greg Duncan for the Aardvark line of Matrix markers. Pink color and a light grease, unless left in direct sunlight for too long. Then it turns green. Sort of looks like ceramic glaze. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be purchased from Aardvark. Send me a PM and I'll get you in contact with them.

Monkey Poo
Warning: Do not fling. Smells like bananas. Created by O-ring Monkey for most current markers. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be purchased from O-RingMonkey's store.

Hater Sauce v2
Popular grease among many markers today. “Slime” green color and reasonably lightweight grease. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be found at most online paintball sites.

Slick Honey
Commonly used for BMX bicycles. Very slimy clear grease that is virtually impossible to get off (making if fantastic for those who don’t want to grease often). Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be found at many online paintball sites.
WARNING: DO NOT USE REAL HONEY FROM "THE BEAR CONTAINER"

Hater Marmalade
A thicker version of Hater Sauce aimed at those who prefer to lube once and be done for the next few days of play. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. Can be found on many online paintball sites.

DOW-33
A relatively thick grease (as compared to the greases above) developed decades before paintball by Dow Corning as a general purpose bearing and seal lubricant thickened with lithium. This was commonly sold by Smart Parts as “Shocker Grease”. Does not swell o-rings or delrin. NOT TO BE MISTAKEN WITH DOW-55 WHICH DOES SLIGHTLY SWELL PAINTBALL O-RINGS. Can be found on many online paintball sites.

Dye Slick Lube
Dye's grease. Do not have much experience/information about this product. It's available from many online paintball sites.


O-Ring kits

Replacement O-Ring Kits
Matrix o-rings are made of Nitrile butadiene (Buna N) making them cheap to buy in large numbers. There are several different sites that sell a wide variety of kits. We like oringmonkey.com. They have kits available for every Matrix bolt on the market including the Slam Bolt. If there's no link for the Slam Bolt on the store yet he hasn't put it up, but you can definitely purchase the kits from them. Send him an email and he'll take care of it.


Last edited by BonesJackson : 12-14-2010 at 02:13 PM.
  #14  
Old 02-24-2010, 11:12 PM
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Z-man Z-man is offline
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Matrix Bolt Disassembly & Assembly

Hello, welcome to the "how do I disassembled gun!" section of the article. I will use an exciting series of pictures to thrill, titillate, and otherwise stimulate your brain so you too can disassemble a Matrix bolt. I'll put descriptions of what I'm doing so you get less horribly confused and don't end up passed out on your floor, drooling. That's disgusting. Let's get started!



Find a nice place to work. This photo booth is not a nice place to work. I start out by setting a bad example. Hopefully you can do better.
IT SHOULD GO WITHOUT SAYING THAT YOU SHOULD HAVE ANY SORT OF AIR DISCONNECTED AND THE GUN OFF.



Unscrew the breech rod. Remove it and the back plate. Slide the breech off the front. Set all aside.




Using a hex key, unscrew the back plug from your Matrix. Most of them are 1/4". If you have a gold Evolve bolt, it will be a freaky Metric size. If you have a C4 smokin back plug, use a quarter (I mean like US currency, a freakin' quarter). If you have a Slam bolt.. well I'll have to write up a separate picture guide.



Using a NON-METALLIC object like the wooden dowel seen above, push the bolt out the back from the front. The front wall and beer can may be stubborn. Should this be the case, a gentle ramming is suggested. Unless you get really freaky with the thing, the gun should be fine. There are a couple #23 o-rings padding the bolt components from the inner wall of the gun, like a cushion.



Push the bolt out of the gun from the breech end. You can try using your finger if you have large hands but I find that you can save yourself considerable pain and suffering by using a wooden dowel (aka a wooden stick like a stir spoon you find in a kitchen. You can gently push out the bolt without damaging the metal.



Remove entire bolt from gun. Set gun aside.



Admire the bolt.



Take note of how all the parts of the bolt go together. Sure you can look at our images but it wouldn't kill you to learn how it goes together by heart so when you take the thing apart on the field you are not trying to get reception on your iPhone to look up these images.



Remove the o-ring off the front tip of the bolt. This will make it a lot easier to slide the front wall and beer can off. Set the o-ring aside. Do not lose it. Slide the rest of the components off the back. Note that the spacer will have to shift positions before it can be removed. Everything else can be slid off the back.

Clean everything with rubbing alcohol or something similar but non-caustic. It would suck if your cleanser ate your o-rings. Really rubbing alcohol is pretty good for this. If you have a bottle of Everclear, you can use it, but don't come crying to me when you decided to take a shot of it while cleaning your gun and later passed out on the floor because DAMN THAT STUFF IS STRONG.

Re-lubricate your o-rings with your grease of choice. I use Matrix Muck. Go see the grease article for more information on greases.

Make sure you grease every o-ring on the bolt or that comes in contact with the bolt. This means bolt tail, bolt sail, internal top hat o-rings, and internal front wall o-ring. Don't overdo it. Crap, I should probably write a "HOW TO GREASE" article. Maybe later.



REASSEMBLY


Slide the beer can onto the bolt sail. Make sure the longer end of the beer can faces FORWARD.



Slide the front wall on the front of the bolt. Put the bolt o-ring back on.



Slide the Top Hat back on.



Place the Sleeve over the Top Hat.



The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.
The Spacer / Bolt Stop should have the indentation side facing forward.





Shut up it's fixed now



Congratulations you have reassembled your Matrix bolt. You will now be able to talk like an expert on the internet about your "OG Trix" skills.




Using your Wookie-like arm and hand, line everything up and push the bolt in from the back of the gun. Sometimes it helps to prop the gun up so it's laying face down.



I actually pull the back plug off before I thread it in. I poke the back wall forward and inspect the front of the gun to make sure the front wall is flush with the cir-clip. This reduces stress on the threads when inserting the back plug and reduces chances of cross-threading and destroying the back plug. Maybe not. I just like doing it.

After the bolt is pushed forward all the way, I thread the back plug in finger tight at first, then tighten with the hex key. *IMPORTANT* Make sure the back plug is flush with the back of the gun body. Do not over-tighten.

Put the breech, back plate, and breech rod back on. Tighten breech rod. Air up gun and listen for the leaks you invariably caused while clawing at the o-rings like the filthy mongrel you are. Please use the leak guide if necessary.

Last edited by Z-man : 06-15-2010 at 04:25 PM.
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